So I fell in love with this crazy sport because it makes me feel my age – 25! OK, not my the age that I am if you calculate the exact year I was born (1966) but my real age. It’s the me that’s inside that I’m not letting go of. Not yet… possibly not ever. We’ll see how long I keep her (the 25 year old inside) alive.
So, three hundred spills later, I learned to surf.
Then I wanted to learn to spin, I tried, fell, fell again then on the 50th fall, I hurt my coccyx bone and could not walk well for a few months. I got better, fell another 100 times and learned… then I decided I want to learn to surf goofy, I surf ‘regular’. This was hard, it’s like a righty using their left hand to write cursive, but another few hundred spills, I learned that too… not so well.. as you can see I”m pretty floppy here… but I learned.
Now I want to learn to do an “Acid Drop”… not quite as cool as this one, but you get the idea:
So, I try, I jump high try to land my feet on the board and PHFLOOUUUF, my arm yanks out of it’s socket and goes in one direction, my knee bends in an inhuman way and feels odd for about 5 minutes, my back scrunches… but I rest a few minutes and try again, this time, I miss the board completely, I try again, again, again, and again. I didn’t know it until now, but I’m hurt, I have to take some time off my back hurts. I know that kids 1/3 my age figured it out in under 10 tries, but it will probably take me a few hundred more (at least). Just for laughs I will probably video my many falls until I learn, but I will learn. I won’t give up.
Sean, Julia and Kristina – when you want something, you have to risk failing, getting hurt… it will hurt, hurt like mad. As I’m writing this I really can’t walk too well, even sitting hurts but I don’t regret it, because I know that the pain is temporary. In a month or two, I will be back on the board and I will achieve my goal and it will feel good because I’m tenacious. Not because I was born that way because I CHOOSE to be that way and you can too. Choose to be tenacious, take calculated risks and don’t be afraid to fail, because it takes 100+ tries to succeed. So many people don’t try. Stay in the safe zone but there is so much more out there for you if you jump out of your safety zone.
I don’t think of my attempts as failures, they are simply part of the learning process. In fact, every time I fall and get up again and try again I believe the falls and “failed” attempts are just the opposite, they are my HUGE successes. Although I’m scared, although I don’t want to fall, I keep going because I know that if you fall enough eventually, you will land it, and you will succeed and you will feel great about it.